Lewis Pass Valleys

Another long overdue trip report from October 2005

Andrew flew in from Wellie
Barry has moved from orkland to Christchurch
Mark has moved from Melbourne to Rangiora

Friday morning and we're off to Lewis Pass, a stop in Culverden unearthed a cafe none of us had been to before, appalling service but excellent butter chicken pie thank you very much. Barry and Andrew discovered they've left plates, mugs and spoons behind, so do a quick recce and arrive back with 10 disposable plates and two Arcaroc mugs -nice- They only have time for a coffee and muffin and remain gutted about our menu choices for the rest of the day.

After leaving a car at the steerdalkers lodge we leave from Windy point and walking up the Hope River track. Much nicer than I remembered, there are obviously less cattle in here these days.




The weather turns out to be less than ideal, still the snow is light and dry. It's very cold, especially at night.

The team are incredulous at the weight of my pack. I explain that I'm grossly unfit, they're all on a training trip for Dragons Teeth in a couple of weekends time. However I'm always warm and find I have everything I need.

I can wear shoes 'cos i have a light load, and this proves to be a good tactic. Light and fast. Even though we have to ford two major rivers and cross two snow covered passes my feet are warm in wool socks as long as we're moving.

The walk up the Hope and then up to St Jacobs hut is uneventful apart from rain then snow for the last half hour or so. St Jacobs is a nice little hut and before long the primus cranked up and hot drinks all round got the conversation going again. My new Titanium spork made it's first appearance, much to the delight of the gear heads amongst us.

A chilly start to the next morning as we plod up the flats and then turn up Pussy Stream. The bottom of the track has been wiped out, but the way ahead is reasonably obvious. The snow got deeper as we neared the bushline, Lake Man bivvy was now only an hour or so away.



After lunch we set off down to the Doubtful River in steady rain. Three trampers toiling up in the other direction surprised us, one of my workmates amongst them. They purported to be intending to camp but the conditions weren't great for that sort of carry on.

The weather began to clear just as we reached the flats. Cloud lifted to reveal an even coating of snow above the bushline and a sprinkling down to 1000m or so. It was now a short hike up to Doubtless Hut, which is beginning to look and feel a little bit run down these days. I was delighted to see that my friend Chucky had been there doing kiwi surveys a year or two beforehand.



There is no route marked on my 1:50,000 map of Lewis Pass between Doubtful Hut and Devilskin Saddle. So it was a pleasant surprise to find not a thin route but a well marked track all the way to the bushline. Deep snow again slowed us down over the saddle and down to Devils Den. The bivvy's at Lewis Pass are really well sited and it's pleasure to loiter awhile.

A low blood sugar experience makes me resolve to more forcefully state my need to eat in future. I should know by now.

Down we plunge to the new Nina Hut with only one person in residence. The hut looks nice and warm but is proving to be pretty popular since it's installation. I might come back when Ngaire can walk a couple of hours at a time.

The Nina is always beautiful at any time of year.
I like to throttle back and just enjoy the last couple of hours of any multi day tramp. An easy well marked track means that watching the trail isn't so critical and your thoughts can roam at will.

Pause a while on the swing bridge and watch a couple of fat trout in the pool below
Breathe the leaf mould and fresh river smell
Stir up some leaves for the robins
Hear the sounds of wind and water